Troubleshooting Electric Golf Cart Issues: Insights from 20+ Years in the Field

After spending more than two decades working in golf cart troubleshooting and support, I’ve seen just about every problem an electric golf cart can throw at you. From simple battery issues to complex controller and motor faults, I’ve helped dealers, shops, and everyday owners track down problems and get their carts running again.

If your electric golf cart isn’t working properly, here are some of the most common issues I’ve seen — and what I usually check first.

1. Battery Problems (The Usual Suspect)

Nine times out of ten, when someone calls me saying their cart “just won’t go,” it comes down to the batteries.

  • Check the basics first: Loose cables, corroded terminals, or low water levels (for lead-acid packs) are often the culprit.

  • Test the pack voltage: A healthy 48V system should read close to 50 volts when charged. If it’s dipping way lower, it’s a sign of weak or dead batteries.

  • Lithium golf cart batteries: These have built-in BMS systems that can trip if something is wrong. Resetting or charging them properly often fixes the issue.

Over the years, I’ve had customers ready to replace motors and controllers, only to find a single weak battery cell caused the whole problem.

2. Solenoid Clicks but No Movement

This one is common. If you hear the solenoid click but the cart doesn’t move:

  • Check for proper voltage on both sides of the solenoid when it clicks.

  • If power isn’t transferring through, the solenoid may be faulty.

  • If power is there, the issue could be the controller not sending current to the motor.

I always remind people: the solenoid is the traffic cop of the cart. If it isn’t doing its job, nothing moves.

3. Controller Issues

Controllers are the “brains” of the system, and after 20 years of support, I’ve seen plenty fail from heat, water damage, or wiring mistakes.

  • No throttle response: Sometimes the throttle sensor goes bad, making it seem like the controller died.

  • Fault codes: Modern controllers flash diagnostic codes — don’t ignore these. They can point you straight to the problem.

  • Intermittent cutouts: Often caused by bad wiring connections or corroded plugs rather than the controller itself.

4. Motor Troubles

While motors are usually tough, I’ve replaced plenty over the years due to:

  • Worn brushes (in older DC motors).

  • Burned windings from overheating.

  • Bearing failures causing strange noises or drag.

If the motor feels hot to the touch or smells burned, it’s a sign the problem runs deeper than batteries or wiring.

5. Wiring and Safety Switches

It’s amazing how many times I’ve tracked an issue down to something simple:

  • Loose grounds.

  • Bad key switches.

  • Forward/reverse switch failures.

  • A hidden fuse or circuit breaker someone overlooked.

When troubleshooting, I always tell customers to start simple and work step by step. Many issues can be solved before pulling out a motor or ordering a new controller.

Final Thoughts from 20+ Years of Experience

After working with golf carts for more than two decades, I’ve learned that troubleshooting is as much about patience and process as it is about parts. Always check the simple things first, take clear voltage readings, and don’t jump straight to replacing expensive components.

If you’re ready for upgrades instead of repairs, I recommend checking out our lineup of electric golf cart parts and solutions. From lithium batteries to high-performance controllers, the right upgrades can eliminate many of the headaches that come with aging stock components.

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